Find all components mentioned in this guide available to order at the foot of this page.

1. Step 1.)Measure the perimeter of your room (length and width) and decide on the drop (that is, how far you want your MF suspended ceiling to sit below the original ceiling).
2. Step 2.) Fix the MF6A edge trim (also known as perimeter trim) around the edge of your room at the chosen height of your ceiling. This will create a holding position for your ceiling’s primary channels (MF7)  and a receiver for the furring or ceiling sections (MF5).Drill and fix the perimeter trim every 600mm to ensure a solid fix around the entire perimeter. Which fixings you use will depend on the wall type – a concrete block wall will require hammer fixings to secure the trim; dry lined walls will need drywall screws. The fixings at this stage are critical (your entire ceiling will rely on them) so if you’re in any doubt about the right fixing, give us a call.

• Step 3.) With the MF6A perimeter trim in place around the room, you’re now ready to install the MF17 hanger angles. These will support the ceiling grid, giving it structural integrity and ensuring it doesn’t sag as it reaches the centre of the room. To achieve the right length for each MF17 hanger angle, measure from the ceiling to the bottom of the MF6A edge trim. Cut the MF17 to that size so, for example, a 400mm drop (ceiling to bottom of edge trim) means the MF17 should be cut to 400mm. 
• Step 4.) For a standard, single lined ceiling, make a mark at 1200mm intervals along the top of two opposite walls and set a line between each mark. Now repeat the process for the other two walls to create a 1200mm x 1200mm grid. Where each line intersects, fix a hanger angle to the ceiling using angle brackets and MF11 nuts and bolts. If you need your MF ceiling to deliver acoustic performance, use acoustic hangers rather than angle brackets.

• Step 5.) Cut an MF7 primary channel (you might see it described as a primary support channel) to the length of the longest set of lines at step 4, minus 3-5mm to make it a simple fix. Drop the channel in place so that it rests on the perimeter channel and sits against the hanger angles, as shown in the MF ceiling diagram to the right. To ensure a sturdy and reliable fix, use wafer head self-drilling dry wall screws to secure the metal pieces together. Repeat until all primary channels are in place.
• Step 6.) Connect MF5 furring sections (aka ceiling sections) at a right angle to your MF7 primary channels. Where you place the furring sections will depend on the size of your plasterboard. You’ll need to install each section at 400mm or 450mm centres. If your length or width if the room exceeds 3.6m, overlap the MF5 by 150mm and fix together using Wafer Head Screws. Slot each ceiling section into the Perimeter Channel. It should sit just below the primary channels. Connect each furring section using MF9 furring channel connecting clips as shown on the diagram, with the dished ‘top hat’ of the metal section facing downwards.
• Step 7.) Repeat step 6 until the grid is complete and secure. The grid is now ready to accept plasterboard, which should be attached to the underside of the MF5 furring sections. Stagger the boards (to make joints less visible) and fix securely using drywall screws which should pass through the plasterboard and into the furring section behind. Ensure screws are positioned no closer than 13mm to a cut edge, and no closer than 10mm to a bound edge.